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One enthusiast is designer par excellence Nigel Cabourn, who describes himself as “an outwear specialist drawing on army history”. His stone island ice jacket review collaboration this season with Peak Efficiency – a first for the Swedish ski model in its 30-year historical past – is Cabourn’s maiden foray into black, and among his common display of camouflage and khaki designs, these pieces are what stood out. The roomy, thigh-length stable-black Snow Patrol sheepskin jacket (£1,700) was inspired by the white shearling worn by the Swedish Snow Patrols and, with its generous fleece collar, large canvas map pockets and massive arrowhead zip, it’s one of the hanging coats of the season. The black Snow Smock (£500), in a waterproof cotton/polyamide Japanese fabric, has military-fashion front pockets and, with its taped seams, waxed cords and leather hood stoppers, is right for off-piste urban manoeuvres.
Certainly, the intersection of excessive-efficiency skiwear and city cool is what a lot of this season’s black motion jackets are about. One of many strongest examples comes from Stone Island, a brand founded on action-inspired design and fabric-expertise exploration. Its trench (£695) in black David TC – a signature polyamide compound fabric that looks like a cross between chilled putty and malleable efficiency leather-based – has an asymmetric storm flap and throat tab and flush epaulettes.
The trench coat was one in all the first modern performance technical military garments to change into a civilian traditional. Milanese model Sealup’s Black Magnificence bike trench (£950) is a brief 1960s-inspired take in cotton gabardine with a curved raglan sleeve and water- and windproof “felled” seaming. The belt, cuff straps and throat tab all glisten with steel eyelets that work nicely in opposition to the black. There’s more bike trench action from Barbour, whose new mannequin of the International A7 (£279), in a lightweight 6oz beeswax cotton, options field-pleated bellows-model pockets. The Weir wax jacket (£279), additionally new, uses numerous waxes to attain a more matte surface, but retains that familiar Barbour feel (and Stone inimitable odor). Mackintosh, meanwhile, has used all-black rubberised cotton for an elongated double-breasted trench (£985) with minimal features: simply storm flaps and a throat tab.
My very own personal black urban-action fall-back has long been my vintage CP Company goggle-hood Mille Miglia jacket, teamed with black tracksuit bottoms, black vest and black running footwear. The black fishtail parka (£395) from the brand’s present assortment has a shell of Lycra over a membrane bonded to an inside polar fleece, leading to a fabric that is both weather-resistant and amazingly delicate and warm. CP’s nifty little Pro-Tek short jacket (£325), in a high-performance stretch polyester jersey, is water repellent, packs down minutely and is as simple to put on as a sweatshirt.
I’m keen too on the brand new black version of Nanamica’s basic M-51 parka (€770), whose exceptionally light Gore-Tex membrane is impervious to rain and also packs right down, and on its low-key black moleskin coat (€780) with a special Kodenshi Cheap Stone Island down lining. High-performance Gore-Tex can also be key to the great-trying GTX Mountain parka (£680) from stone island ice jacket review Woolrich based mostly on a 1970s design, with anti-rain zip and duck-down/feather fill. Its GTX Mountain jacket (£640) with patch and welt pockets and the same fill is a winner too. A black hybrid area jacket from Norwegian Rain (£770) in matte waterproof recycled polyester reworks the basic army four-pocket design by extending it down like the tails of a protracted overshirt, while the CPH jacket (£700), made in the same polyester, has something of a martial-arts armour look about it, with ribbed cuff section and concealed zip pockets.
In the case of Collide – a collaboration between Moncler and the artist/designer Greg Lauren, identified for his highly distressed fabrics and hybrid garment designs – two completely different types are melded diagonally: for example, in the Bady jacket (£2,465), a typical Moncler down puffa fuses with a heavily distressed cotton-drill army parka. And at Maison Margiela, a black techno-poly cotton blouson (£1,360) features multiple jetted pocket details and cinching with a spray-painted rope-gathered waist – a nod to the maison’s inventive heritage – while the ultra-trendy fabric retains it convincingly motion prepared.