Stone Island Eyes America
MILAN, Italy — When Demna Gvasalia put oversized ski parkas on the runway at Balenciaga, some traced the moment back to the influence of Italian sportswear label Stone Island, one in every of the primary to blur the boundaries between technical put on, streetwear and excessive-vogue. Certainly, from its inception, Stone Island aligned itself with a new mode of dressing that defied simple categorisation. “The new era of children — in Italy, they have been referred to as the Paninari — was much less politically concerned than mine, however extra serious about dressing,” says Carlo Rivetti, Stone Island’s president and inventive director, who based the label in 1982 with designer Massimo Osti. “Their shirt could be by Burlington, the sweatshirt by Greatest Company and the jacket by Moncler. And so they rapidly embraced Stone Island.” Notably standard had been the label’s garment-dyed utilitarian jackets, which took inspiration from navy uniforms and workwear.
“Stone Island was an organization that was born by accident,” recalls Rivetti, referring to Osti’s early experiments with the resin-coated canvas used for military tarps from which the designer made Stone Island’s first jackets. “We had no business strategy and we had no branding technique,” he continues. What Rivetti did have, nonetheless, was the help of his family’s firm, Gruppo GFT, one of many world’s largest apparel manufacturers, which produced and distributed clothes for Italian brands like Armani, Valentino and Ungaro. stone island hat grey contrast ribbed wool knitted beanie The corporate acquired behind the fledging Stone Island and it sold quick. “GFT’s sportswear division was doing about 33 billion lira, primarily in Italy and Germany, when Stone Island was born,” says Rivetti. By the second half of the 1980s, Gruppo GFT’s sportswear division was producing about 50 billion lira in sales, with over stone island hat grey contrast ribbed wool knitted beanie half of its revenue coming from Stone Island, based on the company. “There was no real men’s fashion then. And Stone Island hit upon the youth movements that wished to distinguish themselves — the Paninari in Italy and the Mod’s revival and terrace culture in the UK,” explains Rivetti.