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Massimo Osti (1944 – 2005) was an Italian garment engineer and vogue designer most well-known because the founding father of the apparel manufacturers Stone Island and C.P. Firm. Osti’s merchandise have been a mix of his personal improvements and design concepts he bought from finding out army clothing, work-, and sportswear.
1 Early years
5 Product improvements 5.1 4-course of printing on fabric (1970)
5.2 Garment dyeing (1979)
5.Three Brushed wool (1987)
5.Four Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
5.5 Ice jacket (1991)
5.6 Micro (1992)
5.7 Thermojoint (1993)
5.Eight Technowool (1995)
Massimo Osti was born and raised in Bologna, Italy. He turned a graphic designer and labored within the promoting enterprise. His profession within the vogue trade started within the early 1970s, when he designed a T-shirt assortment that includes positioned prints. He was the primary to make use of new methods just like the 4-shade course of and silkscreen that are used for producing T-shirt. Following the success of this first T-shirt assortment, he accepted the provide to design an entire Males’s assortment and turned an fairness companion in the corporate he would title ‘Chester Perry’ (later renamed the ‘C.P. Firm’).
Throughout this interval, Osti laid the foundations for a artistic philosophy fully primarily based on experimentation. The primary innovation he could be chargeable for within the clothes trade was garment dyeing, a course of that fully revolutionized the sphere. It was based mostly upon the idea of various supplies in completed garments reacting otherwise to the identical dye bath. Osti found that garment dyeing creates fascinating tone-on-tone results. This specific dyeing approach grew to become typical for Osti’s C.P. Firm. In 1981, he launched “Boneville”, a brand new model alongside the present CP Firm and CP Firm Child collections.
Ongoing analysis on ending strategies and supplies led to yet one more clothes line in 1982: Stone Island. The primary assortment was made fully from a revolutionary new fabric that impressed from the tarps utilized by truck drivers. The ‘used’ look of this extremely resistant, two-tone, reversible fabric was obtained via stone washing. This new assortment was so profitable that it offered out at each location inside 10 days.
In 1984, Osti relinquished his shares of CP Company to GFT, however stayed on as president. He and his staff devoted themselves to product growth and communication strategies for the corporate. In 1985, he turned the editor of CP Journal, an additional-massive format catalog/journal that was offered at newspaper stands. It featured pictures of every garment in the CP Company collections and visualized the C.P. life-style completely. A circulation of 40,000 copies per collection proved that this unusual promoting software was certainly efficient. It began a pattern that will later be adopted by many different corporations within the business.
1987 was an necessary 12 months in Osti’s profession. He invented and introduced Rubber Flax and Rubber Wool – linen and wool with a skinny, rubber coating. The rubber made the supplies waterproof, improved their resistance and added a completely new feel and look to the garments. In the identical 12 months Osti experimented with brushed combed wool for the first time. At this time all mills use this procedure for processing woolen textiles, the identical process Osti invented in 1987.
The year additionally noticed the start of the color altering Ice Jacket. In collaboration with ITS, Osti employed state-of-the-artwork technological analysis to create this new fabric which modified colour by temperature variations. That very same stone island dark grey liquid reflective field jacket year, his fixed dedication to experimentation earned Massimo Osti an invite to symbolize the Italian clothing industry at an occasion commemorating the 750th anniversary of Berlin’s founding, the 150th anniversary of textile manufacturing and his personal fifteenth yr within the enterprise. For the occasion, an exhibit was held contained in the Reichstag building in Berlin.
In 1988, Massimo Osti’s designs developed a new technique of communication with the public through the CP Firm sponsorship of the Mille Miglia race. The corporate additionally confirmed its help of the Rainforest Basis, the muse spearheaded by Sting and Raoni, chief of the Kayapo tribe in Amazonia, whose purpose was to raise worldwide consciousness of deforestation in the Amazon Rainforest.
1991 marked the opening of a CP retailer in New York’s historic Flatiron Constructing, plus the launch of yet one more iconic garment throughout the Stone Island line: the Reflective Jacket. This jacket was made from an revolutionary materials, which was the fruit of technological analysis performed in Japan. The fabric mixed waterproof fabric with a really skinny layer of glass microspheres, which mirrored even the weakest mild sources with astonishing effectiveness.
In 1993, a partnership with Allegri gave rise to Left Hand. This new brand was characterized by one other unique material, a non-woven fabric made from pressed polyester and nylon fibers which, like felt, might be used with uncooked edge stitching. The next yr, Osti based Massimo Osti Manufacturing, an organization that will reap the advantages of the experience and successes accrued from 20 years’ worth of formal and technical improvements. In 1995, the ST ninety five line was launched and in 1996, Osti started a collaboration with Superga, which consisted in designing a group of picture-defining garments.
Simply two years later in 1998, a brand new firm was based to provide and distribute the OM Undertaking brand, the collaboration with the Frattini Group. This new line of clothing would even be characterized by way of innovative fabrics:
– Electric-j – a extremely resistant materials made from polyester and copper fibers
– Cool Cotton – whose pure look is derived from its cotton part whereas its different part
– Cool max – a hollow fiber that absorbs bodily moisture and wicks it outwards
– Magazine Defender – a canvas product of polyester and carbon fibers whose extremely resistant weave shields its wearer from magnetic fields
– Steel – an “city armor” that includes a nylon canvas which is woven with twisted cotton and stainless steel, making it extremely resistant to cuts and tears.
In 1999, Massimo Osti started the collaboration with Dockers Europe to design a brand new line of technical pants referred to as Tools for Legs. Of the technical supplies used on this assortment, a particular mix of Kevlar stood out specifically; its elevated softness and performance made it applicable to its utility in garment manufacturing.
Amongst Osti’s final tasks was the ICD line. Created in 2000 due to a collaboration with Levi’s, it supplied an enormous array of excessive efficiency technical outerwear. This assortment was then supplemented by the ICD+ line which, due to an settlement with Philips, featured outwear garments which got here outfitted with a mobile phone, mp3 participant, and accompanying headphones and microphone which had been all wired to the garment itself. It was the world’s first industrial instance of wearable know-how.
Massimo Osti died in 2005 and his legacy lives on in the present day by way of Ed Lehan. Additionally the Massimo Osti Archive, a textile archive which incorporates 5,000 garments and over 50,000 fabric samples from roughly 300 textile mills and garment finishing corporations from around the globe.
4-course of printing on fabric (1970)
A Bologna-primarily based firm commissioned Massimo Osti to design printed T-shirts, one thing he had never executed earlier than. On the age of 25, Osti was in close contact with the social and creative movements of the time and profoundly conscious of the modifications happening in society. On the time of his first forays into the world of vogue, Osti’s background in promoting led him to make use of his graphics know-how as a place to begin for tackling his first challenges. “For these T-shirts I used processes for printing on paper to get the completed end result, strategies like silkscreen, positioned prints, 4-course of printing, photocopy, and so forth. It was the primary time something like that was performed in Italy. I do not forget that I needed to silkscreen the primary T-shirts myself before convincing the technician to do them”
Garment dyeing (1979)
“I found that two totally different supplies absorbed and reacted in another way to the dye when dyed concurrently, thereby creating fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results.” That is the premise of garment dyeing, a process that revolutionized the whole trade on the time, each due to the unusual look it produced and due to the numerous lower in prices it represented.
Primary characteristics: every garment is dyed, as an alternative of the supplies they have been made from. Fascinating ‘tone-on-tone’ results, and simplification of dyeing course of.
Brushed stone island dark grey liquid reflective field jacket wool (1987)
Osti took this particular course of, which was initially used on cotton, and experimented with it on wool until he refined the procedure through analysis and tailored it particularly to this noble fiber, revolutionizing the business.
Rubber flax and rubber wool (1987)
These supplies, created by Osti, grew to become very talked-about within the textile trade. They took noble and conventional fabrics like linen and wool and granted them a new look and texture, permitting them to drape and fall otherwise. The particular rubber coating not solely enhanced their pure traits, but in addition grants elevated performance, similar to resistance to water and permits them to stay adaptable to patterns.
Predominant traits: traditional supplies regarded renewed and responded in a brand new technique to put on; additionally they turned extra weatherproof.
Ice jacket (1991)
A jacket product of a revolutionary materials that adjustments colour with temperature variations attributable to its particular chemical composition. The “Ice Jacket” can be extremely waterproof and windproof.
Principal traits: jacket modifications colour by temperature variation. *e.g.pink to gray)
Key-merchandise: First ICE Jacket 1992
This fabric was first offered within the LEFT HAND assortment and is product of pressed microfiber and nylon fibers. The urgent is a standard approach, initially used to make paper. This course of grants the fabric an unmistakable “deerskin” hand and wonderful breath means.
Predominant traits: pure deerskin look, however hotter really feel.
This material was additionally used in the LEFT HAND collection. Its important characteristics are complete resistance to water and put on and as much as eighty% safety from nuclear radiation.
Used for the primary time within the F/W 1996 assortment by “Massimo Osti Manufacturing,” this combination of wool and nylon jersey is wear-resistant and preserves the breathability, naturalness and sturdiness of wool.
Chester Perry (1971-77)
C.P. Child (1978-ninety three)
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