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Stone Island: How The Brand Has Advanced – Woodhouse Clothes

Stone Island’s model ethos has been set in stone for the reason that 1980s, however the label’s dedication to analysis signifies that their assortment is at all times recent and thrilling. With a devoted world following and a again catalogue of 40,000 unique garments, Stone Island is in a league of its own.

When CEO, Carlo Rivetti, was requested why Stone Island’s model has remained so sturdy he stated:

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“Stone Island has all the time remained true to itself, with out concessions. And so we have now been able to rejuvenate our target market of shoppers; we reach out both to our historical prospects, these who’ve faithfully stayed with us for thirty years, but additionally to the youthful crowd, to the brand new generations of immediately.”

Whereas different manufacturers have branched out to include different styles or expanded into unrelated markets, Stone Island has remained targeted, with simply the label’s persevering with analysis into fabrics and dyes pushing the model ahead.

Stone Island Tradition
Ice Jacket Wool Blend in Thermo-delicate Fabric

Should you look back at the last thirty years, the brand began with jackets made from thick truck tarpaulin and continued to create heat-delicate fabrics and Kevlar designs. It can be exhausting to foretell what comes subsequent and that’s what makes the brand so exciting to observe.

The strength of the Stone Island, alongside the undeniable type of their clothes, has created a cult following – together with celebrities reminiscent of Noel Gallagher, Peter Hook and Chris Lowe. The model has additionally been related to soccer followers – and sometimes soccer hooliganism – however the label has been fast to dissociate itself from the latter.

Inside Stone Island
As CEO Carlo Rivetti provides followers a video tour round Stone Island HQ, he describes his dyeing facility as a ‘kitchen’. Jackets are ‘cooked’ in ninety – 140 levels and ‘recipes’ are adopted to create each shade of color.

Nevertheless, to most individuals, Stone Island’s dyeing facility appears to be like extra like a chemistry lab. With row upon row of bottles, there’s a splash of nearly each color possible, and with spectacular equipment and weighty recordsdata of formulation, the ‘Colour Lab’ is evidently a place for experimentation.

And with so many colours packed into one room, Carlo Rivetti even claims it’s the closest thing to a renaissance painter’s workshop in the twenty first century.

Texture and color are the start line for each jacket. From there, the designers experiment to create a design that works. A few of their dyeing strategies may cause up to 50% shrinkage, so getting the design proper is a sophisticated course of.

Each garment is made from a variety of various fabrics, all of which react to dyeing in a unique method – both in how they absorb color or shrink throughout the method. Each jacket is sort of a journey of scientific discovery – and with their archive of 20,000 garments on site, you possibly can stroll by means of the history of their experimentation.

Over Thirty Years of Design

In 1982, Stone Island was launched by Massimo Osti, with their Tela Stella vary. The brand’s identify got here from the pages of Joseph Conrad’s novels – amidst hundreds of words, ‘stone’ and ‘island’ had been the mostly occurring, and so the model was born.

The first assortment was the result of research right into a thick truck tarpaulin, which was resin-handled to be purple on one aspect and blue on the opposite.

1983 – 1986
Carlo Rivetti joined Stone Island in 1983, already an enthusiastic fan of the brand. By 1984, the gathering had advanced to incorporate jumpers, trousers, t-shirts and shirts.

It was also in 1984 that a second signature Stone Island fabric was launched, Raso Gommato – a cotton satin of navy origin, with polyurethane coating.

1987 – 1988
By way of analysis into heat-sealed PVC, Stone Island developed Glazed Silk Gentle, which is shiny trilobite nylon coated in PVC. The effect was a thick and glazed look.

1989 – 1991
In 1989, Stone Island launched the bottom-breaking Ice Jacket. With the event of a heat-delicate fabric, Stone Island created a jacket which modified color with the temperature.

From yellow to blue and from inexperienced to white, the Ice Jacket was a actually futuristic idea. Stone Island developed the design further to create patterned jackets which misplaced their pattern in the chilly, changing into icy white with freezing temperatures.

Subsequent, Stone Island developed a extremely reflective Japanese fabric, which achieved its luminescent glow via a coating of 1000’s of micro glass spheres. Impressed by work safety jackets, this collection was extraordinarily eye-catching and was even capable of mirror gentle from very weak sources.

1993 – 1996
This was a time of nice change for Stone Island – Massimo Osti left the label and in his place, Englishman, Paul Harvey, joined the staff and pushed the analysis ahead.

With an injection of latest concepts, the following few years noticed a huge variety of modern fabrics coming into the color Lab. The primary was Method Steel, a nylon canvas bonded to a polyurethane movie.

Intensive analysis additionally created Oltre, a positive nylon fabric with an ultra-shiny coating.
1997 – 1998

The analysis continued at a relentless tempo, and in 1997, Stone Island designers utilized a Reverse Color Course of method on the Raso Gommato fabric. First printed in black, the fabric then pale utilizing a corrosion method to be later over-dyed.

Nylana, a thick nylon canvas used to line tanks, also grew to become part of the gathering throughout these years.

1999 – 2001
At the mens stone island flannels turn of the millennium, the Stone Island design staff have been extremely busy. Launching an enormous quantity of latest fabrics and designs in simply two years, including the Pure Metal Shell Silver and Pure Metal Shell Bronze (as proven above). These parkas had been created with either 100% stainless steel or a hundred% bronze metallic mesh, bonded to fabric.

Stone Island’s designers subsequent moved onto a cloth which is 5 instances stronger than the identical weight in steel: Kevlar. As pictured above, Stone Island discovered a method to dye this seemingly inconceivable material by means of including a nylon mesh and a polyurethane coating.

Initially designed for use on aeroplane circuit boards, Stone Island started to make use of silver spray on their assortment of high-quality polyester jackets, including a vacuum seal of a hundred% stainless seal.

The brand additionally launched their Ventile vary, utilizing a navy textile which was a hundred% cotton and developed for British fighter pilot’s overalls within the Second World Struggle.

In 2002, the vary continued to develop, with jackets engineered to look flat with a sequence of folds and seams including element.

One other success story from this year was the light Jacket. Continued research perfected the design – a white jacket with fibre optic mesh inserts that light up with blue light.

The design group also experimented with numerous layers of meshes, which revealed the inner building of the jacket.

2003 – 2005
Stone Island perfected their Compact Procedure to create extraordinarily dense materials, which are boiled at 130 degrees and then shrink by up to 50%.

Mussoal Gommata was also launched, developed by laminating ultra-gentle cotton muslin to a matte polyurethane movie.

2006 – 2007
The David TC Fabric was launched, consisting of polyester, polyamide and Japanese microfiber, which was then dyed under pressure at 130 degrees.

Creating their portfolio of reflective jackets, Stone Island designed the Antiquated Reflective.

Paul Harvey left Stone Island in 2008 and Carlo Rivetti stepped into his footwear as Creative Director. And in the identical 12 months, the brand’s affiliation with Aitor Throup was formed, creating the Stone Island Shadow Collection.

2009 – 2011
Developing on their previous heat-reactive Ice Jacket, Stone Island created a camouflage jacket which loses its pattern in the cold.

The staff additionally developed a brand new textile: Waxed Ice, which was cotton moleskin containing thermo-sensitive quartz and graphite.

2012 – 2013
For the S/S season in 2012, Stone Island launched the Prismatic Muslin, a light-weight cotton muslin, which was treated with coloured resins before the material was laminated to produce a prism-effect polyurethane movie. The fabric can then be double-dyed to create a variety of vibrant colours.

Subsequent, Stone Island created the Hydrophobic Therapy, a course of which creates a garment that’s extremely water-repellent and environmentally friendly.

2012 marked the thirtieth anniversary of the model and celebrated with STONEISLAND30, a serious exhibition at Stazione Leopolda in Florence. Alongside the exhibition, three symbolic garments have been created to mirror the historical past of Stone Island, together with a re-version Stone Island Jacket of Tela Stella.

Thirty years’ of analysis and 40,000 garments later, their present A/W collection displays this rich history of design. Browse the Stone Island A/W rangeand to see what the model has to supply this 12 months.

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What’s subsequent for the Model

With a relentless drive in direction of creating new colours and materials, Stone Island is a model all the time capable of surprise. When asked what the longer term holds, Carlo Rivetti stated:

“We get inspired by folks, architecture and design. At present we’re at present finding out some materials used within the automotive trade. Through the Olympics, the outfits the athletes put on are very technical, which can be inspirational.

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