Stone Island: The Return Of The 90s Vogue Label
Each brand revival will be charted again to a moment in history, pop cultural or in any other case. With Italian label Stone Island, which is currently fielding a brand new wave of curiosity, that second arguably got here with Drake.
Final Autumn, Stone Island and Supreme collaborated on a line. Marrying the two labels’ USPs, it was hip and functional and a runaway success. The slick, waterproof Raso Gommato Cover Nero jacket, made from cotton satin and polyurethane with a removable liner, was a case in point. Then Drake posted a picture of himself on Instagram in a red sweater from the collaboration next to a shot of Ashley Walters’ character from Top Boy with the caption: “Real bod man #Dushane” and that was that: Instagram exploded, the line offered out and Stone Island was again.
In reality, the return of Stone Island has been happening for a while, certainly among those not old enough to remember it the first time round in the nineties, submit-Madchester, mid-Britpop era. Wavey giacca stone island Garms, an internet vintage fashion site and pretty dependable yardstick for all things cool, observed a spike in demand in the summer season. When i first met Andres Branco, the co-founder of Wavey Garms, last summer he cited “Stoney” (as in Stone Island), Supreme and Champion as big sellers, with buyers bidding frantically for bucket hats and zip-up sweaters.
A uniform for Generation X, Stone Island was founded by Massimo Osti in 1982 as a official sports brand with a technical bent. Outerwear that looked nice, but kept you warm. It evolved from the pitch to the terraces to Oasis and then sort of dipped, or at the least existed in less of a trend-led approach, returning to the practical staple it once was.
Serious sportswear – from outdoorsy brands such as North Face to Lonsdale and Champion – have been growing with incremental hipness over the past year or so. Add to that the growth of ath-leisure – luxe sportswear, basically – and more down-to-earth brands comparable to Stone Island are finding a new audience looking for something that prioritises practicality. High Snobiety’s Maude Churchill thinks this unique combination is its shtick: “An enhance of sports-led designs has leaked into mainstream developments and Stone Island has been delivering this since day one.”
As to why it’s taking place now, well, the reasons are twofold. It is clearly a golden time for heritage brands although Churchill thinks ‘2014’ is arbitrary: “I assume it’s natural for heritage brands to experience a revival because of the cyclical nature of developments, and since these heritage brands have traits that have enabled them to maintain themselves as a model for thus lengthy: high quality, craftsmanship.”
But, in reality, heritage brands are proving oddly fashionable and influential. From newish brands akin to Hiut Denim via old-faculty labels together with Poiret, a elementary part of heritage brands is the best way they combine design with craftsmanship. Add that to the best way sportswear has evolved from the pitch to pavement and you have yourself a pattern by default.
But, aside from the vintage pieces, it is the carefully chosen collaborations that are key to its success. Stone Island has just launched a modular scarf with Shadow Challenge made from iridescent nylon polyester, quilted in star shapes, which will be attached to jackets. It looks set to turn out to be another bestseller. Churchill agrees that collaborations are “certainly a contributing factor”, but she maintains it is the way that Stone Island has remained unmoved and unshaken by normal trends that has led to its new-found status.
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